Monday, October 3, 2011

Churches of Transylvania

The most consistent part of our Saxon heritage are the fortified churches that you can find overall in Sibiu, Mureş and Braşov county. Some of them I've visited myself and these are:

Biertan - the most famous one, we already have a post about it here:



Moşna - unfortunately this one was closed so I had to admire it only from outside:


Stejăriş - small but neat, it currently undergoes a massive restoration process:



Richiş - not fortified, but full of history, you can learn here about the misterious Green Man:



There is an excellent website dedicated to these monuments:

Monday, September 26, 2011

Brunch at Stejărişu


I've lived all my life in Sibiu county but there are so many remote little villages forgotten by time and townsmen in a 100 km radius that once in a while is nice to leave the city life behind and take the opportunity to enjoy a day on the country side. The last Transilvania Brunch of the year and the first one I've attended was held Saturday in Stejărişu, a village located near Agnita, around 80 km from Sibiu, also know by its German name of Probstdorf. 

Each warm month of the year, a group of people involved in tourism around Transylvania organize a brunch in a village situated in the region between Sibiu, Mediaş, Sighişoara and Braşov. The event is targeted mostly at the Romanian townsmen but tourists are welcomed and the reason behind this gathering of joy, good food and local music is to present a chance of discovering less known communities, landmarks and traditions. 

The villagers cook their traditional meals and drinks, everything is fresh and made from the fruits of the land. All the money collected from the entry tax (around 10 euro per person) go the countrymen and a normal event has between 100 and 350 participants.

Besides eating all the delicious food, the brunch at Stejărişu was accompanied by the music of the local brass band, a visit to the old fortified church and the herbs garden, a musical moment held by the village kids and a tasting of local liqueurs.Blessed with an excellent weather the whole day was very enjoyable and I intend to repeat the experience next year, when they resume the programme. 

The food stands
The brass band
Children in traditional clothes

Everybody's enjoying the meals and music
The liqueur stand
Essential links:

Friday, September 23, 2011

An Eye for a Tulip

If you live in Romania you've probably heard all over the news the fact that Holland and Finland vetoed our entry into the Schengen space. If you're a flower export company from Holland that works with Romania you may have heard too and it probably still hurts. In an Old Testament sort of fashion, Romanian Customs halted all trucks bringing Dutch flowers into our country. The official reason is an unnamed virus that affects humans. It seems that this virus affects mainly Dutch exporters and Romanian politicians, not common people. It might affect some Nokia trucks soon - seriously Finland? What have we ever done to you? - and if the standoff  continues some new laws will be enforced:
- permanent ban on Rudolph the Finnish reindeer;
- no wood export to Holland - and let's see you do your traditional wooden clogs with cardboard!
- whoever wears orange will be whipped in public - I have my doubts about that and not only because of Orange, though the French deserve it as they opposed our Schengen space entry in the beginning too;
- all the Dutch people caught will be sent to concentration camps where they will have to learn the song "aşa-i românul (când se veseleşte)";
- we'll bring all our women from the Red Light District back home - except the fat ones;
- Heineken will be prohibited and its factories sold to SAB/Ursus, Finlandia will be allowed to sell tea only;
- Golden Tulip hotels will be de-rated to -1 stars.

I think the most hated word for the soon-to-be Romanian brides is "Schengen". Instead of their desired flower arrangements they will have to make-do with local roses and carnations. Long live the EU brotherhood!

Friday, September 16, 2011

Essential Romanian Phrases

Searching the web i've stumbled on this page that teaches you some basic Romanian words and phrases.

I recommend to learn the following sayings too, they might come handy:

  • rupe-i făşul - tear his foil -- when you assist to a sports event, as an encouragement for your favorite player;
  • dă-i carbid - give it carbide -- step on it!
  • trăi-ţi-ar franţuzoaica - may your French woman live long -- when you want to complement a buddy for the quality of his woman;
  • plimbă ursul că rugineşte lanţul - walk the bear 'cos the chain is rusting -- it's a nice and polite way to say to the police officer that you don't posses any illegal goods.
to be continued

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Cisnădioara

In my opinion the most idilic village around Sibiu, Cisnădioara, is still a good kept secret and a oasis of calm and detachment from the noisy city life - only 10 km away. With its sunny hills covered with apple trees and the 12th century church that watches the whole region from above, there is no wonder why the rich people prefer to have holiday villas or permanent residences here. The nearby valley with its rivulet is one of the places where the locals go during summer weekends to grill parties, camping, biking or climbing on the "frog's stone" - a 65 million years old limestone. 
The church
View from the church, including the defense wall
Guest house in the center of the village
The church, view from affar

Apple trees hill

Friday, September 9, 2011

Four Essential Romanian spots

As you will see below Adela is in love with her country. For good reasons. One thing she forgot in her guest post: that we also have nice men not only world-class women.

Sure, we were gifted. Seaside, mountains, delta, green fields, wide and narrow valleys – you name it, we have it. Picturesque gypsies, too, as you might have heard of. Blonds, brunettes, redheads, long-legged ladies – all are part of intern folklore about the beautiful, unspoiled Romania.
Well, folks, the truth is – and that might come as a shock to you – Romania is truly beautiful. If you know where to look.
I have four hints – and if you take my advice, but don’t enjoy the experience, feel free to leave the complaint at the front desk. Oh, we don’t have a front desk. Guess why: there are no complaints!

1. Medieval towns – so well preserved, that one would easily believe we still hang people in the main squares. Well, we do, except it’s just for the show. And yes, please beware at dawn for the wolves, even the ones locked up in the zoo. Sometimes, when there is a full moon for example, they tend to become werewolves and ferociously kill all living things. Of course, when there are living things left, after the attacks of the vampires. Because the medieval towns that I recommend lie in the heart of Transylvania.
Sibiu, my hometown, is one of them. That’s why I began with it. And also because it has medieval towers, bridges, squares, houses, statues – everything you love about the Dark Ages. A lot of pubs and open cafes, too, so you can wait comfortably for the werewolves.
Sighisoara. Copyright: Wikipedia
Also, don’t miss Sighișoara. The functional middle-ages town will take your breath away (the vampires again), especially if you go there by the end of the July, when the Medieval Festival takes place. But if it is too crowded for you, any other time would be ok.
You can add Brașov to your list, with its beautiful Black Church – and since you got there, knock at the gates of the Bran Castle, which is not only the home of the head of the vampires – honestly, don’t believe that bullshit –, but also the marvelous perfectly preserved castle of a true queen.

2. The Danube Delta – by far, my favorite destination in Romania. You have never seen anything like the Danube Delta, which is on the list of the UNESCO World Heritage Centre. It is a land in itself, a land that although belongs administratively to Romania, it has its own laws, the laws of nature. It is a paradise for odd birds, monstrous fish and weird cows that take a bath in the sea. You can take a bath with them if you go to Sfântu Gheorghe, a village with no cars whatsoever, because it is a village that has no roads at all. In this place, where the Danube embraces the sea, all the streets are covered in sand. There you will find one of the last beaches in the world that are totally unspoiled by man – no cafes, no sunbeds, just you and the sea. To reach it, you have to take a 15 minute walk towards a sandy road, accompanied by frogs, birds, water lilies, lavender and some noisy mosquitoes, which you have to learn to live with. The locals cook delicious fish courses and almost all of them have motorized boats, so you must take a trip to the heart of the Danube “jungle”. Breathtaking (or have I used that expression already?)!
Danube Delta. Copyright: Wikipedia
3. High up in the mountains – if you are not that type of the „mountain-freak” who can’t wait for the week-end to leave for the clouds, well, you haven’t been trekking our mountains yet. I will only tell you that whether you choose Bucegi Mountains (the holy Kogaion for the ancient Dacians), Făgăraș Mountains (the highest in Romania, with the peak Moldoveanu, 2544 m, holding the reccord), Piatra Craiului Mountains  or Retezat Mountains (both natural reservations), you are surely to find glacial lakes, fairytale peaks and valleys, dark caves and crystal clear water springs. No wonder they have caused so many legends about fairies, dragons and creatures beyond imagination. Other creatures, such as the Carpathian bare and the marmot, still wonder about the narrow paths of the mountains. Chances of meeting them? Well, let’s say a 9, on a 10 grade scale.
Fagaras Mountains. Copyright: Wikipedia

4. Maramureș – a place who forgot about the ages. Villages from the past, where the most kind Romanians will treat you as if you were part of the family. You’d better visit this part of Romania in winter, when horse-carried slays slither on the snow-covered roads, children sing tradional carrols, and yes, pigs are slaughtered, but for a noble cause: a feast of traditional meal that will convince you not to ever eat chicken again. Trust me, it is that good!
Maramures county. Copyright: Wikipedia
Despite of the accute self-ironic sense of the Romanians, despite of the propaganda about poor roads and violent thiefs, despite even of the werewolves (have I told you about the werewolves yet?), trust me, Romania is THAT good!

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Motorcycling around Sibiu

For the softer tourists Sibiu has an International Theater Festival but for those who like a bit of action the Red Bull Romaniacs motorcycle rally is a must. It's considered one of the toughest races in the world and it has quite a reputation in the circles of enduro fans. Besides that we constantly have groups of moto enthusiasts who pay good money to ride their bikes on our steep hills and mountains. 
Romaniacs: prologue in the city

You can do this wandering on your own, self-managed, or in a more organized manner, with support helicopter and medical personnel. If you're doing it on your own you may want to know a few facts, I'm not a rider but they will still come handy:

  • ask the experts, you can easily find somebody with great knowledge in our city, there are a few bike groups that know their business, I've heard countless stories of broken bones;
  • don't take shortcuts through farmers' crops. You may find an angry peasant that has seen one too many bikers crossing his land and the scythe is still a popular tool around here;
  • on the other hand if you're friendly and polite a farmer will help you when in need. If you get lost in the mountains you can find shelter in the cottage of a shepherd, they don't see many people and will like the company. You can get something to eat and a stinky sheepskin to cover. Also, don't have too much tuica with the sheperd, Brokeback Mountain might not be inspired from real facts but it isn't purely fictional either. If you're a woman you better sleep in the woods with the wolfs - kidding;
  • if you see a sheperd's dog and you're on the motorbike: accelerate, they are dangerous. If you're on foot: stand still, pray and yell for the sheperd - you might want to do them simultaneously. Don't try to pet or scare the dog, it's used to fighting bears, you're no match. If you're wondering: it doesn't have a brandy barrel around his neck, more likely spikes;
  • bears are quite friendly if you don't disturb the cubs, just give them some food and they will stay for a photoshooting, or so I've heard from the ones that survived the encounter;
  • werewolf, Dracula - just myths, you have bigger things to be scared of, but let's not take all the fun out of it and divulge everything, shall we?
  • last but not least: read some proper material, this was supposed to be funny.
Romanics: let's not forget about why you became a
biker, we also have cheap beer